17 January 2009

Fuel the fire of my demise.


So yesterday, Friday the 16th, I parked myself at our communial home. Waves were without a doubt bad. I quit trying to get good ones at about the time that the Tommygun and Jonofang (http://www.myluckyundiesarered.blogspot.com/) pitched up and mumbled some bogus about waves not looking to bad. Anyway the brunt of the crew chilled on the rocks and watched them slave about for some good ones, which they got. Tom has decided to go commercial and now does inverts like all of us, welcome to the team. Johno is younger than me and boogs better than me most days, please become fat. This was still bearable. While we were all having a fat laugh about porn and other manly things, Jared Houston decided he was going to pitch up. At first his approach was innocent, he settled for the classic thumbs up and how's-the-water greeting. If only we knew he was actually here to burn our crops and chase our children into the hills. Jared paddled out, got all 3 the best waves of the day in a matter of minutes, made all of us jealous, made me shout indencies and then told me while I was paddling out again, to stop his reign of terror: "Shees bro, the waves are nice." Cheecky bastard.

Jared's first wave, well maybe not but close enough. Fuck me, this was amazing in so many ways. Made sitting on the rocks so unworth it.

Dream destroyer's second wave, might've been the 3rd or 4th though. This made me cringe so hard, everyone else was mouthing of some butcrack compliments. I'm glad Jared's going to Hawaii, the way he rides foam at the moment is sure to induce jealousy, plus he isn't going to be spoiling our days anymore! Yeeeew.

And just to add insult to injury, here we have young son Jonofang doing the thing most of us dream about. All in all a terrible day at the beach.

I paddled out again after Jared's waves, got 2 closeouts. Went home. The world doesn't believe in justice.


  1. hellman!
    nicely written..
    i enjoy your banter.
    looking forward to more..


  2. Stuff man that is too funny bru!
    Dig it.
    See you soon!